An Elusive Arch
Story and photo by Michael Krajnak
In September 1996, President Clinton declared the creation of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. This provided permanent protection for 1.7 million acres in Southern Utah. In his declaration, Clinton stated: “God’s handiwork is everywhere in the natural beauty of the Escalante Canyons.” In this wondrous landscape of canyons, hoodoos, arches, streams and slick rock, I’ve spent much of my free time the past 10 years.
On an early Tuesday morning, not long ago, I set out to find Phipps Canyon Arch. The trail began near the confluence of the Escalante River and Calf Creek. I walked down river for a mile, through Cottonwoods and Tamarisk, wading the Escalante, and headed southwest into Phipps Canyon. The canyon’s entrance was rather inauspicious, only about 400 feet deep at the mouth. There was, however, little evidence of human impact.
I walked up canyon with anticipation. This was my first time in Phipps and my sense of discovery was aroused. I traveled a side canyon to the west and came to a dead-end. A quick glance at my topo showed the arch was high on a ridge above me, so I retraced my steps to the main canyon and began a slick rock scramble up the wall. I picked my route carefully, always checking my map and compass. Soon, I arrived at the base of this massive arch, its sides stained with desert varnish. I spent hours exploring, climbing and gazing at the expanse of untouched land. This is a wonderfully lonely place and the beauty of this landscape comes from knowing that it will remain lonely for a long time to come.
Michael Krajnak
928-284-1816
walkingman@sedona.net
www.southwestoutside.com